Gigantor is a Chossy Sandbagged 5.12cR Trad Route

Gigantor, a 5.12cR trad route located in the San Rafael Swell of Utah, is a classic climb that has been a favorite of many climbers due to its unique challenges. With its chossy rock, sandbagged grade, and technical moves, Gigantor is a climb that is sure to test even the most experienced climbers. Read on to find out more about this classic route.

Location of Gigantor

Gigantor is located in the San Rafael Swell in the southeastern part of Utah. It is a short drive from the town of Green River and is easily accessible from the I-70. The route is located on the north face of the San Rafael Swell and is a great destination for climbers looking for a bit of adventure in the desert.

Rating and Difficulty of Gigantor

Gigantor is rated 5.12cR, which is considered to be a very difficult grade. This is due to the sandbagged grade, as many climbers have found the route to be harder than expected. The route is also quite chossy, with loose rock and sections of rotten holds. This makes the route even more difficult, as it requires a lot of technique and technical climbing to navigate the route successfully.

Protection on Gigantor

As with most trad routes, Gigantor requires a good amount of protection. The route is primarily protected with traditional gear such as cams and nuts, although some sections require the use of bolts. This makes it important to bring a full trad rack and to be aware of the protection options on the route.

Approach to Gigantor

Gigantor is located on the north face of the San Rafael Swell, so the approach is fairly straightforward. The route is easily accessible from the I-70, and it is a short drive from the town of Green River. From there, it is a short hike to the base of the route, and the approach is generally considered to be easy.

Additional Gear Needed for Gigantor

In addition to the standard trad rack, there are a few additional items that are recommended for climbing Gigantor. These include a helmet, chocks, and a few slings for rappelling. A helmet is especially important, as there are sections of loose rock and choss on the route. Additionally, a few slings are necessary for rappelling off the route, as the descent is fairly long.

Recommended Beta for Gigantor

Gigantor is a challenging route, so it is important to have a good understanding of the route before attempting it. It is recommended to consult with a guide or experienced climber who has climbed the route before. Additionally, it is important to pay attention to the protection options on the route and to be aware of the chossy rock on certain sections.

Tips for Climbing Gigantor

  • Be patient: As with any trad route, it is important to take your time and be patient with the route. Gigantor is quite challenging and there are many sections that require technical climbing, so it is important to take the time to figure out each move.
  • Be prepared: Make sure to bring all the necessary gear for the route, including a full trad rack and a few slings for rappelling. Additionally, it is important to be aware of the protection options on the route and to be prepared for the chossy rock.
  • Be aware of the rock: Gigantor is quite chossy, so it is important to be aware of the rock quality and to be careful not to pull on any loose holds. It is also important to be aware of the protection options on the route and to be prepared for the chossy rock.

Descent from Gigantor

The descent from Gigantor is fairly long and involves rappelling off the route. It is recommended to bring a few slings for rappelling off the route, as well as a few extra carabiners. Additionally, it is important to be aware of any loose rock while rappelling, as there are sections of chossy rock on the route.

Conclusion

Gigantor is a classic 5.12cR trad route located in the San Rafael Swell of Utah. It is a challenging route due to its sandbagged grade and the chossy rock found throughout the route. It is important to be prepared with the appropriate gear and to consult with a guide or experienced climber who has climbed the route before attempting it. Additionally, it is important to be aware of the protection options on the route and to be prepared for the chossy rock. With its unique challenges and stunning views, Gigantor is a must-climb for any climber looking for a bit of adventure in the desert.

Gigantor, a 5.12cR trad route in Chossy, Utah, is quickly gaining notoriety in the climbing community as one of the most challenging and rewarding routes in the area. Located just outside of Moab, the route is a roughly 400 foot long climb that winds its way up the cliff’s face. It has become especially famous for its dangerous and technically demanding sandbagging nature.

The 5.12c rating does not tell the whole story about Gigantor. Many climbers have found it to be a much more difficult climb than the grades suggest. Sandbagging often occurs on a route when the difficulty is felt to be far higher than the official rating of the climb. For Gigantor, the rating is deceptive. Despite the 12c rating, many experienced and elite climbers have found it to be far more challenging than they expected.

The route is often recognized for its beautiful views, exciting moves, and long runouts. Gigantor starts with a juggy, crack climbing section that takes the climber up a massive dihedral. The route immediately changes after leaving the crack and moves onto the traversing upper section which is the crux. This unique style of climbing forces the climber to locate invisible edges, insecurely place gear and test their balance. Locating the right gear placements in the route’s flaring, hollow, and often wet cracks can be very tricky.

The route finishes with a final headwall finish that showcases the best of Chossy – long mantels on slopers and amazing views of the whole area. Gigantor is proving to be one of the most difficult, yet rewarding, trad climbs in the Moab area. Experienced climbers looking for a challenge should certainly take on this sandbagged masterpiece.

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By Ansel Starr

Hi there! I'm Ansel Starr and I'm a passionate rock climber, adventure enthusiast, and blogger. I've been rock climbing for over 10 years and it's my favorite way to explore the world. I love the physical challenge of it, the thrill of overcoming difficult routes, and the amazing view from atop a summit. When I'm not climbing, I'm usually writing about my experiences in my blog. My blog is dedicated to all things rock-climbing related - from helpful tips and tricks to stories of thrilling ascents - with a focus on inspiring others to get out there and take on their own challenges. I hope that by sharing my stories and experiences, I can help bring the joys of rock-climbing to others. So join me as we embark on our journey together!